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广安工作服 > 行业动态 > 西装的前世今生,你可知这曾是北欧渔民服
西装的前世今生,你可知这曾是北欧渔民服
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GUANGANGONGZUOFUDINGZUO

时间 : 2019-01-25 18:00 浏览量 : 17

    DOUSHUOXIZHUANGSHIYIGENANHAIDAONANRENDECHENGSHUBIAOZHI,ZAISHANGCHANGSHANG,LEJIEYIDIANXIZHUANGDELISHIHEWENHUADIYUN,BUZHIYUNANRENZHIJIANTANLUNDEHUATINIZONGGENBUSHANG,BUZHIDAOSHENMEXIANGMUJIQIANWANBUZHONGYAO,NIZONGDEDONGDIANXIZHUANGDECHUANDAHEXIANGGUANLIYI,WOXIANGMEIYOUJIGENANRENBUYUANYITING,BIJINGAIMEIZHIXINRENJIEYOUZHI,NANSHIYEBULIWAI。

    西装的传说

    FENGYIZUIKAISHISHIJICHONGFENGXIANZHENDEZHANSHIMENDECHUANDE,ERZUIKAISHICHUANXIZHUANGDERENJURANSHIBEIOUNANXIADERIERMANYUMIN。

    GUSHISHIZHEIYANGDE,YOUYINIANQIUTIAN,TIANGAOQISHUANG、FEILIPUZIJUESUIYUFUCHUHAIDIAOYULE,DIAOYUDESHIHOU,FEILIPUFAXIANZIJIDEGUIZUFUSHISHIFENLEIZHUI,YUFUQUEXINGDONGZIRU,YUSHI,TAZIXIGUANCHAYUMINCHUANDEYIFU,FAXIANTAMENDEYIFUSHICHANGLING、SHAOKOUZIDE。ZHEIZHONGYANGSHIDEYIFU,ZAIJINXINGHAISHANGBUYUZUOYESHISHIFENBIANLI。JIUSHISHUO,CHANGLINGDUIYONGLIDERENSHISHIFENSHUFUDE,YEBIANYUDAKOUDICHUANQI;KOUZISHAOGENGBIANYUYONGLI,ZAILAODONGQIANGDUDADEZUOYEZHONG,KEYIBUKOU,JISHIKOULEYEHENRONGYIJIEKAI。

西装的传说

    FEILIPUSUIRANSHIGEHUAHUAGONGZI,QUEDUIFUSHIPOYOUXINDE。TACONGYUFUYIFUNEILIDEDAOQIFA,HUIDAOBALIHOU,MASHANGZHAOLAIYIBANCAIFENGGONGTONGYANJIU,LITUSHEJICHUYIZHONGJIFANGBIANSHENGHUOERYOUMEIGUANDEFUZHUANGLAI。BUJIU,YIZHONGSHIXINDEFUZHUANGWENSHILE——Longue  suit。TAYUYUFUDEFUZHUANGXIANGSI,CHANGLING,SHAOKOU,DANYOUBIYUFUDEYIFUTINGKUO,JIBIANYUYONGLI,YOUNENGBAOCHICHUANTONGFUZHUANGDEZHUANGZHONG。ZHEIJIUSHIXIZHUANGDEYUANXING。

    西装的构成起源

    XIFUDESHIZU:1690NIAN,JIUSITEKEER

    SHIQISHIJIHOUBANYE,DUISHISHANGCHAOJIMINGANDELUYISHISI,DIANDINGLEFAGUONANZHUANGZAIOUZHOUZAOXINGNANZHUANGDEBAZHUDIWEI。ZHANGYIJIXIDEWAIYI“JIUSITEKEER”HEBIQILVEDUANDE“BEISITE”,YIJIJINSHENHETIDEBANJIEKU“KEYOULUOTE”YIQIDENGSHANGLISHIWUTAI,GOUCHENGXIANDAISANJIANTAOXIFUDEZUCHENGXINGSHIHEXUDUOCHUANZHEXIGUAN。

足彩波胆网    JIUSITEKEERQIANMENJINKOUZIYIBANBUKOU,YAOKOUYIBANZHIKOUYAOWEIXIANSHANGXIADEJILI,――ZHEIJIUSHIXIANDAIDEDANPAIKOUXIZHUANGYIBANBUKOUKOUZIBUWEISHILI,LIANGLIKOUZIZHIKOUSHANGMIANYILIDECHUANZHEXIGUANDEYOULAI。

    领带的始祖:1705年,克拉巴特

    1670ZHI1675NIANJIAN,KELUODIYAQINGQIBINGZUOWEILUYISHISIDEJINWEIBINGZAIBALIFUYI,TAMENBEICHENGWEI“KELABATEJINWEIBING”,QIBOZISHANGXIYITIAOYAMABUYINQIRENMENDEMOFANGERCHENGWEINANZHUANGLINGKOUBUKEQUESHAODEZHUANGSHIWU,ZHEIJIUSHIXIANDAILINGDAIDESHIZU“KELABATE”。

    DANGSHI,RUHEXIHAOZHEITIAODAIZISHIPINGJIAGUIZUNANZIGAOYAYUFOUDEBIAOZHUNZHIYI,YINCI,XUDUOGUIZUZHUANMENGUYONGCONGSHICIXIANGGONGZUODESHICONG。

    ZHANGKUSHIFAGUODAGEMINGDECHANWU:1829NIAN,PANGTALONG

足彩波胆网    1789NIAN,FAGUODAGEMINGZHONGDEGEMINGZHEBAZHANGKU“PANGTALONG”ZUOWEIDUIGUIZUNEIJINSHENDEBANJIEKU“KEYOULUOTE”DEGEMINGLAICHUANYONG,ZUICHUPANGTALONGDEKUZHANGZHIDAOXIAOTUIDU,HOULAIZHUJIANBIANZHANG,1793NIANZHANGDAOJIAOMIAN。DAOSHIJIUSHIJIQIANBANYE,KUTUISHIERJINSHEN,SHIERKUANSONG,YUCHUANTONGDEBANJIEKUBINGCUN。DAOSHIJIUSHIJIWUSHINIANDAI,NANKUWANCHENGXIANDAIZAOXING。

西装三件套

    三件套和布鲁梅尔

足彩波胆网    1799NIAN,BULUMEIERDENGCHANG,TASHI19SHIJIYINGGUOZHUMINGDESHENSHI,JIHUCHENGWEIHOULAISHENSHIDEDAICHENG(Bryan  Brummell)。BULUMEIERYIDUFUZEWEIJUNDUIGOUMAIHEZHIZUOZHIFU,ZHEISHIDETANENGGOUJIECHUDAOLUNDUNZUIHAODECAIFENG,ZHEIXIECAIFENGZHANGWOLEOUZHOUZHIYIGONGYIDEJINGZHANJISHU,ERBULUMEIERZEDUJUHUIYANDIBABUTONGDEZHIYIGONGYIHESHEJIYUANSUJIEHEZAIYIQI。BULUMEIERDECHONGSHANGJIANJIE,WEINANXINGSHEJICHUYIZHONGXINXINGDEFUZHUANGSHIYANG。ZHISHICAIFENGZHIZUOTIESHENHETIDESHEJIERBUSHIYIWANGDEKUANSONGZHIFU,JIANHUADEYANWEIFU、YAMABUCHENSHAN、JINGZHIDELINGJIEYIJINENGYEJINXUEZIDEZHANGKU,HAIJIANGZHEIXIEWAITAOHEKUZIGAICHENGLEJIANDANPOSHIDESUSE,ZHEIYANGYILAIRENMENDEZHUYILIJIUHUIJIZHONGZAIYIFUDEJIANCAIHEKUANSHISHANG。DIYITAOSANJIANSHIXIFUTAOZHUANG(Three-piece Suit)XIFUMAJIA、SHANGYI、KUZIDEXINGSHIDANSHENGLE。

    诞生于休息室的现代西服

    WEIDUOLIYASHIDAIDEYINGGUOSHANGCENGSHEHUI,YOUXUDUOLIYIJIANGJIU,TEBIESHIYELIDESHEJIAOHUODONG,NANSHIBIXUCHUANYANWEIFU,XUJUZHIWENYATANTUBUSU。WANYANGUOHOU,NANSHIMENKEYIJUZAICANTINGPANGDEXIUXISHIXIAOQI,ZHIYOUZAIZHEILI,CAIKEYICHOUYAN、HEBAILANDI、KAIWANXIAO,YEKEYIZAISHAFASHANGTANGWO,ZHEISHINEIBITINGDEJINBAOSHENTIDEYANWEIFUJIUXIANDEBUHESHIYI。

    YUSHI,YIZHONGKUANSONGDEWUWEIQIEKEJIUZUOWEIXIUXISHIZHUANYONGDEYIFUDENGSHANGLISHIDEWUTAI,ZHEIJIUSHI“LAWENGJI·QIEKE”,YUECHANSHENGYU1848NIANQIANHOU。ZAIXIANGDANGYIDUANSHIJIANLI,ZHEIZHONGQIEKESHIBUNENGDENGDAYAZHITANGDE,ZHIXIANYUXIUXIHUOJIAOYOU、SANBUDENGXIUXIANSHICHUANYONG。SHIJIUSHIJIHOUBANYE,ZHEIZHONGQIEKESHANGSHENGWEINANZHUANGZHONGYIGEZHONGYAOPINZHONG,DANGSHINIUJINDAXUE、JIANQIAODAXUEDEXUESHENGCHUANDENIUJINQIEKE、JIANQIAOWAITAOYEDOUSHIZHEIZHONGZAOXING。

    中国第一套国产西装

足彩波胆网    ZHONGGUODIYITAOGUOCHANXIZHUANGDANSHENGYUQINGMO,SHI“HONGBANGCAIFENG”WEIZHIMINGMINZHUGEMINGJIAXUXILINZHIZUODE,XUXILINYU1903NIANZAIRIBENDABANYUZAIRIBENXUEXIXIZHUANGGONGYIDENINGBOCAIFENGWANGRUIMOXIANGSHI,CINIAN,XUXILINHUIGUO,ZAISHANGHAIWANGRUIMOKAISHEDEWANGRONGTAIXIFUDIANDINGZHIXIFU,WANGRUIMOHUALESANTIANSANYESHIJIAN,QUANBUYONGSHOUGONGYIZHENYIXIANFENGZHICHUZHONGGUODIYITAOGUOCHANXIZHUANG,ZAIDANGSHIDEQINGKUANGXIA,QIGONGYIWEIBICHAODEGUOXIFANGGUOJIADEZHIZUOSHUIPING,DANYICHONGFENXIANSHICHU“HONGBANGCAIFENG”DEGAOCHAOGONGYI,CHENGWEIZHONGGUOXIZHUANGJISHENYUSHIJIEMINZUZHILINDEXIANXINGZHE。

西服定制

    四十年代的“军服”:1940年,跨肩式西服

足彩波胆网    ERCISHIJIEDAZHANQIJIAN,RENMENCHONGSHANGWEIWUDEJUNRENFENGDU,WULUNNANZHUANGHAISHINVZHUANG,DOULIUXINGJUNFUSHI。ZI1940NIANQIANHOUQI,NANZHUANGLIUXINGBold look,SUOWEI“Bold”SHIDADANDEYISI,QITEDIANSHIYONGHOUERKUANDEDIANJIANDADANDIKUAZHANGHEQIANGDIAONANXINGNEIKUANKUO、QIANGZHUANGDEJIANBU,YUZHIXIANGHUYING,LINGZI、BOTOUYIJILINGDAIYEDOUBIANKUAN,QIANBAIXIAJIAODEHUXIANYEBIANDEFANGYING。KUZIKUANSONGFEIDA,SHANGDANGHENZHANG。

    英国田园式的流行:1982年,田园式

    BASHINIANDAISHIYIGEFUGUDENIANDAI,SUIZHESHIJIEJINGJIYIDUFUSU,XIFANGCHUANTONGDEGOUZHUSHIFUSHIWENHUAYOUYICISHOUDAOZHONGSHI。QISHINIANDAIMODEDAOTIXINGXIFUZHEISHIYOUHUIDAOCHUANTONGDEYINGGUOSHIZAOXINGSHANGLAI,DANYUYIWANGBUTONGDESHIRENMENZAIZHEIGECHUANTONGZAOXINGZHONGZHUIQIUSHUSHIGAN。XIONGBUFANGSONGLIANGJIAODA,BOTOUBIANDA,KOUWEIJIANGDI。DANJIANSHANGYIYUYISEKUZIDEZIYOUZUHEHENSHOUHUANYING。RENMENZAIWENZHONGDECHUANTONGZAOXINGZHONGZHUIQIUWUJUWUSHUDEXIUXIANQIFEN,YIZAIKUANSONGSHUSHIDEXIUXIANWEIXIFUZHONGXUNZHAOCHUANTONGMEIDEGANJUE。ZAIZHEIZHONGBEIJINGXIA,YINGGUOYONGCUHUANIZHIZUODE“TIANYUANSHI”FEICHANGSHIMAO,CONGCI,XIUXIANXIFURIJIANXINGSHENG。

    ZUIZHENGTONGDEXIFUYANGSHI,SHANGYIYUKUZIYIJIBEIXINDOUSHIYONGXIANGTONGDEMIANLIAO、SECAIFENGZHIERCHENG,BINGQIEYOUXIFULINGDAI、BEIXINSANJIANTAOZUCHENG,DANSHIHENYINGGUOSHIDEBEIXINZAIZHONGGUOHENBUSHOUCHONG,XIANZAISHAOJIANYOURENCHUANZHE。TEBIESHISHANGHAI,DONGJIBUSHIHENLENG,SUOYICHUANZHEDERENGENGSHAO,QISHI,WOSHIFEICHANGXINSHANGSANJIANTAODE,TEBIESHIKANLE《HUANYOUDIQIU80TIAN》LIDEPIERSI·BULUSINANGENGSHIJUEDEHENYOUYA、SHENSHI。SUOYIJIUNEISANJIANTAOWEILI,ZUOXIEJIESHAO。BAOKUOBEIXINZAINEIDESANJIANTAOXIZHUANG,YINGGAISHIYOU14GEKOUDAIZUCHENGDE。